The walk around Buttermere is a very pleasant one. Add to it a hike up Haystacks and you’ve got yourself a huge number of fantastic views, excellent photography opportunities, and a wonderful morning or afternoon out.
Famous Buttermere Photos
You can park at the National Trust car park just outside Buttermere village, although in summer there is sometimes additional parking in the field opposite The Buttermere Court Hotel (formerly The Fish Inn). All parking is paid (unless you’re a member of the National Trust).
From the village, set off down a track next to The Buttermere Court Hotel to the north west edge of Buttermere lake. This is a popular walk so you can usually just follow other walkers. However, if you’re carrying your camera, you may want to consider arriving very early in the morning to get the best shots before there’s much foot traffic. The early wake up is well worth it to see the sun rise over the fells.
From the top of the lake you’ll see Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks rising up at the opposite end of the water. Both of these fells are iconic: Fleetwith for its impressive hulk split by an ascending ridge, and Haystacks for the rocky piles that give it its name. The view is great from here, but it’s later on that we’ll come to one of the area’s best shots.
A famous view from here is that of the Buttermere Lone Tree. Partly submerged in the water, the slender lines of this sparse tree stand out spectacularly against the tranquil lake. It offers a wonderful photo opportunity in all seasons, whatever the weather.
Highland Cattle and Wildlife
The walk continues along the south west edge of Buttermere, past waterfalls, through woodlands, and by small beaches where you’ll often find people paddling in the warmer months. Look out for the fluffy Highland cattle that are well known in the area. These gentle giants may be cooling themselves off in the water or munching on some grass on the surrounding fellside. Either way, they always seem happy to model for you.
There’s plenty of birdlife and small mammals dancing around the woods here. Red squirrels can even be spotted leaping between branches.
Climbing Haystacks
As you reach the end of the lake, the path forks and you go right to start climbing Haystacks. The path is clear, though rocky underfoot. It’s a reasonably long climb, too, so take plenty of stops to rest up and enjoy the views behind you. The ridge on Fleetwith Pike comes into relief and you see it isn’t such a sharp ascent as it seems from the head of Buttermere.
The top of Haystacks is as craggy as its outline promises from the valley. There’s a whole panorama of photography opportunities, from Buttermere and Crummock in the valley, to Ennerdale, Great Gable and the Scafells behind you.
Another highlight of this fell is Innominate Tarn. Famous fell walker and author Alfred Wainwright loved this place so much that it’s where he had his ashes scattered. You’ll probably run into a few Wainwright Baggers taking a moment to themselves while you’re up here. You can do the same, or else take advantage of the reflections in the water and snap a photo or two.
Warnscale Bothy and the Descent
As you start to descend Haystacks, there’s plenty more to see. Fissures in the mountain form points of interest, and the steep scree slopes contrast nicely with the lush greenery of the valley floor. You’ll also get more angles of Buttermere and Crummock as they reach towards the coast of West Cumbria.
Another place worth stopping, if you’ve got the time to hunt it out, is Warnscale Bothy. Perfectly blending into the surrounding hillside, this tiny slate hut is often snapped at sunset or sunrise. It’s position overlooking the Buttermere valley is spectacular. If you’re familiar with overnight camping in bothies, then this is well worth a stop over.
Continuing on our walk, you’ll have to make your way back to the path if you’ve taken the detour to Warnscale Bothy. You’ll cross over the top of Warnscale Beck and then follow a clear path down around the edge of Fleetwith Pike.
Closing the Loop
Once you reach the road, continue left for a short while until you’re back on the lakeside path around Buttermere lake. The rest of this route is relatively flat and easy, with a particularly interesting section of the path heading through a tunnel hewed out of the rock.
Before you get there though, and as you first start turning away from the road, look over the water back towards an earlier section of your walk. It’s from here that you’ll find one of the Lake District’s most iconic views: over Buttermere towards the towering forms of Fleetwith Pike and Haystacks.
You’ll also spot a small white building by the trees below Haystacks. Another well-known site, the lone structure brings a real sense of scale to the mountain that towers above it.
The path now continues gently all the way back to the village of Buttermere and your starting point. There are two good pubs, two cafés, and an ice cream parlour all in the space of a few metres of each other, so you can choose your refreshment before heading back home.
Haystacks and Buttermere Prints
If you’ve enjoyed this photo tour around Buttermere and Haystacks, take a look at the prints available on my website. You’ll find all those you’ve seen in this blog, plus even more of this stunning area.